The recent inscription of Ghana’s Kente fabric, among other African items and practices, into UNESCO’s Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity is a milestone in the global acknowledgement of Africa’s cultural wealth and its potential for economic growth.
The updated global list was announced during the nineteenth session of the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage in Paraguay in early December.
According to UNESCO, Kente deserves inclusion in a list of intangible heritage elements that concerned communities and state parties consider to require urgent measures to keep them alive because “it is a means of identity construction, reflecting the social histories of various communities.”
The list includes the practices, knowledge, and expressions that communities recognize as part of their cultural identity, along with associated objects and spaces.
Specifically, Kente is a silk and cotton fabric from the Akan tribe in Ghana. It was common in the ancient Ashanti Kingdom and was commonly woven by the Akans in the Ivory Coast. Many other groups influenced by Akans also wear it.
“People of all genders are involved in the production process, and the fabric promotes information transfer and exchange,” the Unesco acceptance note document explains.
Beyond its cultural roots, the preparation of Kente cloth is a masterclass in authenticity and artistry. Cotton is hand-harvested, spun into thread with a spindle, and wound onto bobbins. The warp is laid, setting the stage for traditional wooden looms to work their magic. Here, skilled weavers interlace vibrant, symbolic patterns with unmatched precision, transforming raw materials.
According to George-Grandy Hallow, a Ghanaian community leader, Kente is not just a garment but a symbol of pride and creativity for Ghanaians.
“It is now used in contemporary designs such as bags and footwear, showing its versatility and relevance in modern times.”
The cloth’s uniqueness has garnered international recognition. Buyers from countries like Togo, Nigeria, Cameroon and beyond come to Ghana to purchase Kente for resale, highlighting its widespread appeal across West Africa and globally. Tourists from the US, Canada, the UK, and other parts of the world also visit Ghana to experience and buy authentic Kente.
Ivorian designer Aristide Loua, founder of the brand Kente Gentleman, which is anchored on the art of Kente craftsmanship through unique modern designs, won the 2023 Africa Fashion Up, underscoring the enduring legacy and evolving relevance of this iconic African textile in contemporary fashion.
It’s not just Kente that earned UNESCO recognition. The Wosana ritual is a rainmaking tradition from Botswana’s Bakalanga community. It involves rituals, prayer, feasts, song, and dance in the Northeast and Central Districts. The entire community participates, with roles defined by traditional leadership. Knowledge is passed down through observation and mentoring, with new practitioners sworn to secrecy about its sacred aspects.
The balafon and kulintang, wooden xylophones from West Africa (Mali, Burkina Faso, and Côte d’Ivoire), and Indonesia, who share similar designs and cultural significance, are also now UNESCO-recognised. More than just instruments, they symbolize unity, respect, and cultural harmony, promoting dialogue and peaceful coexistence across communities.
Other African heritages added to the UNESCO list include the performing arts of the Twāyef people of Ghbonten, Tunisia, the Henna rituals and aesthetic practices across Algeria, Egypt, Mauritania, Morocco, Sudan, and Tunisia, and the Mangwengwe dance of Zambia.
The list also honoured traditions such as the women’s ceremonial costumes of Eastern Algeria, the Ngondo worship in Cameroon, Attiéké production skills in Côte d’Ivoire, the Epic of Samba Gueladio from Mauritania, the Durbar tradition in Kano, Nigeria, the Semsemiah crafting and playing instrument in Egypt, and the Xeer Ciise oral laws of the Somali-Issa communities in Ethiopia, Djibouti, and Somalia.
African countries hold immense potential to drive significant economic growth, capitalising on their rich cultural heritage. The global value of international trade in cultural goods is over US$18 trillion, yet Africa exports a marginal value of just about US$725 million, according to the UNECA.
With the global creative industry estimated to reach US$985 billion by 2025, Africa can harness its rich cultural heritage and creativity to drive economic growth, create jobs, and position itself as a key player in the global market.
Boniface Orucho, Bird Story Agency
